Back to the journal

Mariia Maksymovych’s Embroidered Shirt: A Study of the Ornament

Read the articleRead the articleDownload the article
The authors of the publication:
Oliynyk Maryna
p.:
155–162
UDC:
746.3:391-055.2Мак]:069.51Шев
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.15407/mue2023.22.155
Bibliographic description:
Oliynyk, M. (2023) Mariia Maksymovych’s Embroidered Shirt: A Study of the Ornament. Materials to Ukrainian Ethnology, 22 (25), 155–162.
Received:
01.12.2023
Recommended for publishing:
14.12.2023

Author

Oliynyk Maryna

a Ph.D. in History, a research fellow at the Ukrainian Ethnological Center Department of M. Rylskyi Institute of Art Studies, Folkloristics and Ethnology of the National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine (Kyiv, Ukraine).

ORCID ID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2946-8243

 

Mariia Maksymovych’s Embroidered Shirt:
A Study of the Ornament

 

Abstract

The results of the research of the embroidered ornament of Mariia Maksymovych’s shirt, preserved at the Taras Shevchenko Literary Memorial House-Museum are described in the article. The study of the issues related to Ukrainian history and national identity is a relevant topic interesting for the scientists as well as for the general public. Modern ethnological studies have faced the issue of investigation of Ukrainian ornamentation in the system of cross-cultural approaches. The research methodology is based on the works of such scholars as Khv. Vovk, O. Kosach, St. Taranushenko, T. Kara-Vasylieva, M. Selivachov, H. Hough. The history of the transfer to the museum and the technological features of the embroidered shirt of Mariia Maksymovych are studied thoroughly in the work Mariia Maksymovych’s Shirt by O. Karpenko (2012). Our investigation is dedicated to the discovery of a possible original source of the embroidery ornament of Mariia Maksymovych’s shirt. As a result of the search, identical patterns have been found. They are published in a series of works by the DMC textile company. It has published books and albums on needlework under the name brand of Th. Dillmont (a famous popularizer of embroidery art in the 19th century). Some doubts about the authenticity of Mariia Maksymovych’s shirt have been raised with a found information. However, a deeper study of the issue has showed that the DMC firm has attracted previously printed schemes to its published works. So, at the moment, we cannot state unequivocally that the embroidered shirt hasn’t belonged to Mariia Maksymovych. The submitted materials reveal new perspectives for the study of intercultural influences of embroidery ornamentation. The pattern on the shirt preserved at the Taras Shevchenko Literary and Memorial Museum will be considered also in the context of the heritage of the authoritative Austrian connoisseur of embroidery art Th. Dillmont after our research.

 

Keywords

embroidered shirt, embroidery, ornament, fashion magazines, Mariia Maksymovych, Thérèse de Dillmont, Embroidery in the Clothes of Prominent Ukrainians project, Taras Shevchenko Literary and Memorial House-Museum.

 

References

  1. VOVK, Khvedir. Characteristic Features of South Russian Folk Ornamentation. In: Hanna SKRYPNYK, ed.-in-chief. The Ethnographic Heritage of Khvedir Vovk. Book 1. National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine, M. Rylskyi IASFE. Kyiv, 2012, pp. 108–117 [in Ukrainian].
  2. KARA-VASYLIEVA, Tetiana. History of Ukrainian Embroidery: Book-Album. Kyiv: Art, 2008, 464 pp. [in Ukrainian].
  3. KARPENKO, Olha. Mariia Maksymovych’s Shirt. Folk Art and Ethnology, 2012, no. 1, pp. 75–78 [in Ukrainian].
  4. KOSACHEVA, Olha. Ukrainian Folk Ornament. Embroidery, Fabrics and Pysanky. Kiev: S. V. Kulzhenko, 1876, 23 pp., 31 tables [in Russian].
  5. ANON. Labels and Patterns for Embroidery. Letters, Monograms,Numbers and OrnamentsEmbroidered onCounted Threads.Patterns on Transparent Paper for Satin-Stitch Embroidery. Dornach: Edition of Th. De Dillmont in Mulhouse (Alsace), 1901. 92 pp. + 10 sketches for drawing [in Russian].
  6. MILLER, Aleksandr. Lotus in Ukrainian Ornament. Proceedings of the 14th Archaeological Congress in Chernihiv in 1908. 1911, vol. 3, pp. 81–88 [in Russian].
  7. OLIYNYK, Maryna, Oleksii DIEDUSH. ”Lady Shirt” by Mariia Maksymovych: Meeting at the House-Museum of Taras Shevchenko [viewed 30 March 2023]. Available from: https://www.etnolog.org.ua/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=2363&Itemid=356 [in Ukrainian].
  8. SAVCHENKO, Fedir. Prohibition of Ukrainianness in 1876. Kharkiv, Kyiv: State Publishing House of Ukraine, 1930, 414 pp. [in Ukrainian and Russian].
  9. SELIVACHOV, Mykhailo. Lexicon of Ukrainian Ornamentation (Iconography, Nomination, Stylistics, Typology): A Teaching Aid for Higher Educational Institutions of Art. The 3rd ed., completed and improved. Prefaced by Myroslav POPOVYCH. Kyiv: Editorial Office of the ”Ant” Bulletin; “Phoenix”, 2013, 416 pp. [in Ukrainian].
  10. SERHIICHUK, Larysa. Maksymovych Mariia Vasylivna. In: Mykola ZHULYNSKYI, editorial board’s chairperson. Shevchenko Encyclopedia: In Six Volumes. Kyiv : NAS of Ukraine, T. Shevchenko Institute of Literature. Vol. 4: М–Па. 2013, pp. 31–32 [in Ukrainian].
  11. TARANUSHENKO, Stefan. «Polubotchyshyna» Shirt. Scientific Proceedings of the Research Department of the History of Ukrainian Culture, 1927, no. 6, pp. 365–369 [in Ukrainian].
  12. Proceedings of the Third Archaeological Congress in Russia, Held in Kiev in the August, 1874. Kiev, 1878, vol. 1, 488 pp., 85 tables [in Russian].
  13. ANON. Ukrainian Embroidered Shirts [viewed 18 May, 2023]. Available from: https://www.nas.gov.ua/UA/Messages/Pages/View.aspx?MessageID=10113 [in Ukrainian].
  14. BASSEE, Nikolas. New modelbuch von allerhandt art nehens und stickens jetzt mit viellerley welscher arbeyt, moedel und stahlen allen steinmetzen, seidenstickern und neterin sehr nuetzlich und kuenstlich von newem zugericht. [New Model Book from all Sorts of Art and Embroidery Now with Lots of Italian Work, Models and Stoles from All Stonemasons, Silk Embroiderers and Neterin Very Useful and Artificially Prepared from New]. Frankfurt am Main, 1571, 97 tabl. [in German].
  15. DILLMONT, Thérèse. Alphabet de la Brodeuse [Embroiderer’s Alphabet]. 1900. Paris. D.M.C. 82 tabl. [in French].
  16. DILLMONT, Thérèse. Alphabet de la brodeuse [Alphabets for the Embroiderer]. Frankfurt a Main. 1900. D.M.C. 92 tabl. [in German].
  17. ANON. Dollfus-Mieg et Compagnie [DMC (Company)] [viewed 8 March 2023]. Available from: https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dollfus-Mieg_et_Compagnie [in French].
  18. HOUGH, Helen. Early Modern Embroidery and Lace Pattern Books. Arlington, Texas: James G. Collins & Associates, 2017, 90 pp. [in English].
  19. KÖNIG, Anna. Mending and Repairing. In: Véronique POUILLARD and Vincent DUBÉ-SENÉCAL, eds. The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress, 1800 to the Present. London, New York: Routledge Taylor and Francis Group, 2023, pp. 112–130 [in English]. DOI : https://doi.org/10.4324/9780429295607-8.
  20. OSTAUS, Giovanni. La vera perfezione del disegno per punti e recami. Riproduzione della edizione di Venezia del 1561 dall’esemplare della Biblioteca Corsiniana in Roma. [The True Perfection of Stitch and Embroidery Design. Reproduction of the Venice Edition of 1561 from the Copy of the Corsiniana Library in Rome]. Bergamo: Italian Institute of Graphic Arts, 1909, 81 tabl. [in Italian]. DOI : https://doi.org/10.5479/sil.183193.39088009258831.
  21. ANON.  Thérèse de Dillmont [viewed 8 March 2023]. Available from: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Th%C3%A9r%C3%A8se_de_Dillmont [in English].
  22. VORSTERMAN, Willem. Ce est ung tractat de la noble art de leguille ascavoir ouvraiges de spaigne [This is a Tractate of the Noble Art of Leguille Ascavoir Works of Spain]. Antwerp, after 1527, 44 pp. [in French].
© ІМФЕ