Types of shirts of the Chernihiv Region (from the collection of the Museum of Folk Architecture and Everyday Life of Ukraine)

Author

Shafranska Halyna

a researcher at the National Museum of Folk Architecture and Everyday Life of Ukraine.

Types of shirts of the Chernihiv Region (from the collection of the Museum of Folk Architecture and Everyday Life of Ukraine)

Abstract

The types and ornamentation of the traditional shirts from Chernihiv region of the 19th – early 20th centuries are investigated in the article for the first time after the materials of the shirts collection from the funds of the National Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of Ukraine. Chernihiv governorate is taken as a territorial-administrative unit. The authoress has distinguished general features of the investigated shirt and described its local peculiarities according to the typological characteristics of the cut, ornament, colour. The shirts peculiarities, which connect them with the patterns from the Left-Bank Lands Along the Dnipro, in particular, the samples from Poltava region and Slobozhanshchyna, are investigated in the article. The Polissian features of the shirts from the northern districts of Chernihiv region are distinguished. The techniques of embroidery, the local ornaments and stitches, which have got their names according to their localization, are considered in detail. In particular, the shirts with woven sleeves with ancient geometrical ornaments (Horodnia district), the archaic method of the sleeve connection with the inset and the shirt width – ‘brannia’ (Novhorod-Siverskyi district) are considered. The shirts from south-eastern districts of the present-day Chernihiv region (Pryluky, Sribne, Varva, Talalayivka, Ichnia), bordering on Sumy and Poltava regions, are described in detail. They are similar and the same with them according to their artistic and ornamental means in the shirts decoration. The authoress has analyzed six techniques of adorning of the shirt of the second half of the 19th century from the village of Khayenky of the Ichnia district. It has been woven and embroidered by a serf Koval (born in 1843). Peculiar attention is paid to the shirts decoration with the naturalist-vegetative patterns, embroidery with a cross. It is emphasized in the article that the cross technique provides wide possibilities to embody separate elements of the ornament, especially polychromic one. The authoress supposes, that the artistic taste in the ornament and colours choice is the only request for the perfect execution. It is confirmed with the refined samples of brocard shirts from Horodnia district. The article is relevant for the traditional clothes researchers.

Keywords

traditional shirt of the Chernihiv region, shirts types, ornamentation.

References

1. MARKOVA, Olena, Valentyna SHANDRA. Chernihiv Governorate. In: Valeriy SMOLIY, editor-in-chief. Encyclopaedia of the History of Ukraine: In Ten Volumes. NAS of Ukraine Institute of the History of Ukraine. Kyiv: Naukova dumka, vol. 10: T – Ya. 784 pp.: ill. [in Ukrainian].
2. Olena PCHILKA. Ukrainian Patterns: Album-Collection, 1927 [in Ukrainian].
3. BONDARCHIK, Vasilii, Roman KIRCHIV, eds. Polesie. Material Culture. Kiev: Naukova dumka, 1988 [in Russian].
4. RUSOV, Aleksandr. The Description of Chernigov Governorate. Chernigov, 1898, vol. 1 [in Russian].
5. SHAFONSKII, Afanasii. Topographical Description of the Chernigov Governorate with a BriefGeographic and Historical Description of Ukraine. Saint-Petersburg, 1851 [in Russian].
6. LITVINOVA, Pelageya, compiler. Ukrainian Folk Ornament. Kharkov, 1878, iss. 1; 1902, iss. 2 [in Russian].